There’s a Very Good Reason Your Shirt Has a Horizontal Buttonhole

It turns out, this classic shirt detail isn’t as sideways as you might think.

closeup of a button on a brown shirtPhoto by Jack Seemer for Gear Patrol

Take a look at the placket on your favorite shirt, the part that has all the buttons. There’s a good chance that most of the holes are stitched vertically. But if you look carefully, you might notice that the bottom one is horizontal. In fact, it might even have a different color of stitching. Like many details of shirt designs, this one was born from practicality, and the reason for its orientation isn’t sideways at all.

The reason shirts have horizontal buttons

“Common shirt lore is that the last hole is sewn horizontally so that button and buttonhole can endure more stress from pulling,” says Chris Olberding, president of Gitman Vintage. “That part of the shirt would generally equate to the waist and hip area, which sees more movement than the chest.”

closeup of a button on a brown shirt
A hortizontal buttonhole can withstand more stress from movement, meaning the buttons are less prone to coming undone.
Photo by Jack Seemer for Gear Patrol

As we walk, our bodies tend to twist side to side, so most of the movement buttons experience is horizontal. This movement is more intense around our waist and hips. The horizontal orientation of the bottom buttonhole gives the button leeway to shift about, preventing it from coming undone.

Why don’t the other buttons follow suit?

Generally speaking, vertical buttonholes are more prone to buttons popping out than horizontal buttonholes. So why aren’t all the buttons horizontal?

Vertical buttonholes are easier to fasten. They also look cleaner since the buttons are less likely to shift from side to side.

For one, vertical buttonholes are easier to fasten. They also look cleaner since the buttons are less likely to shift away from the center of the buttonhole. The bottom buttonhole is typically tucked in and out of view, so its orientation has no bearing on the formality of an outfit.

Even more common than a horizontal bottom buttonhole is the horizontal top buttonhole at the collar of the shirt. Employed for the same reasons, the top buttonhole also experiences more tension, especially on the occasion that you’d button it all the way to the top and pair it with a tie.

A stitch in time

Some shirtmakers go a step further and use contrast stitching on the bottom buttonhole, giving it further flair. Traditionally, extra stitching was used to reinforce the bottom buttonhole and was done in a contrasting thread.

closeup of a horizontal buttonhole
Some shirtmakers, like Gitman Vintage, still use contrast stitching for the bottom buttonhole.
Photo by Jack Seemer for Gear Patrol

“With many shirts being worn both tucked in and not, we decided to match the color of the thread on this button-hole to the Gitman green of our label,” Olberding says.

Though many people wear shirts untucked today, partially negating the necessity of a sideways buttonhole, the feature remains in many shirt designs. Today, it’s both a nod to the past as well as a pinch of style.