This Is the Real Reason T-Shirts Have Pockets

The evolution of the modern fashion staple is a windier tale than you think. It’s also a reminder of how much times have changed.

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It feels natural now, but the chest pocket isn’t original to the T-shirt. Nor was it originally designed to hold glasses or pens. How the pocket became a normal feature is a windier tale than you might imagine. Even to this day, its difficult to pin down exactly how it happened, although a few known facts point to an obvious conclusion.

T-shirts, in their original form, weren’t something to be worn alone. Instead, the garment’s origins trace back to what we’d know today as long underwear that was specifically designed to be worn under a “union suit.” It was most commonly made from wool and thus far too hot to wear in summer. Fed up with overheating, the story goes, someone cut the garments in half, leaving the top long enough to tuck it into the bottom, and the T-shirt was supposedly born, at least in long-sleeve form.

From UNDERWEAR to the Army

Despite it’s growing adoption as an undergarment, wearing a T-shirt on its own remained taboo for quite some time. In fact, it was outlawed in some states. That was until it became standard issue in America’s armed forces.

As Pagan Kennedy of the The New York Times noted in a article back in 2013, in 1904, Army supplier Cooper Underwear advertised its “bachelor undershirt,” a T-shaped shirt with a stretchy neck and a henley-like button configuration. But by 1915 the military abandoned buttons, because soldiers lacked sewing skills and struggled to replace missing ones.

The term “T-shirt” is also at least partially credited to a famous source. F. Scott Fitzgerald is supposedly the first person to use the term in print according to the Oxford English Dictionary.

As such, the Army inched even closer to inventing the T-shirt as we know it. When soldiers left the service, they took their stock with them, and T-shirts became pedestrian โ€” and very, very popular. First marketed to kids, the companies that manufactured them eventually catered to adults, too.

The term “T-shirt” is also at least partially credited to a famous source. F. Scott Fitzgerald is supposedly the first person to use the term in print according to the Oxford English Dictionary. It appeared in This Side of Paradise, published in 1920 as part of a packing list description.

THE HOLLYWOOD EFFECT

In the 1951 film A Streetcar Named Desire Marlon Brando wears a tight-fitting T-shirt with no front pocket. T-shirt sales boomed shortly after. In 1955, James Dean wore a T-shirt on screen, too, in Rebel Without a Cause. His was more in tune with today’s shape, though: longer sleeves and a tighter crew neck, but still no pocket.

So how’d we get from outerwear with pockets โ€” M-65 jackets, for example โ€” to T-shirts with them, too? If plain T-shirts were popular (hence the famous men sporting them), why sully them with a pocket?

nicholas ray and james dean in 'rebel without a cause'
For Rebel Without a Cause, James Dean wore a white T-Shirt both while filming and in-between shots.
Archive Photos

HOW THE POCKET LIKELY CAME TO T-SHIRTS

The small left chest pocket was first included in a patent filed on August 16, 1929 by John W. Champion of Evanston, Illinois on behalf of Chicago-based Reliance Manufacturing (who coincidentally held over a dozen military contracts at the time, too).

john w championGoogle Patents

He presented an illustrated pattern for an everyday shirt with asymmetrical pockets โ€” one big one on the right side of the chest and a crested one on the left sized perfectly for a box of cigarettes. Called a “yamapoke” in Japanese repro circles, the pointed pocket was original to engineer shirts but were adapted by Champion for more common wear.

Keeping cigarettes near your chest versus a traditional pant pocket made sense as a way to prevent inadvertently crushing your cigarettes from sitting on them. This desires is what also spawned the trend of soldiers rolling cigarette packs into their shirt sleeves.

john w championGoogle Patents

Champion’s original pocket was more robust โ€” two-ply to keep the cigarettes off wet skin and with a clasp closure to block rain โ€” but it set a precedent for the convenience of pocket tees to come.

And Reliance Manufacturing’s tie to the military, where T-shirts (and, as such, surely T-shirts with pockets) first appeared is no coincidence. But the true origin remains unclear.

It’s fair to say that pockets were probably carried over from outerwear to T-shirts because cigarettes were still plenty popular โ€” especially with the subset of men that resonated with characters played by Brando and Dean.

Today, the vice has faded from fashion but its impact on fashion has not.

The Pocket TEE We Recommend

Outerknown Groovy Pocket TeeOuterknown

Best Overall T-Shirt

Outerknown Groovy Pocket Tee

Made from organic cotton, this shirt is loosely knit for an airy feel which goes well with its relaxed silhouette. The garment-dye process also gives the tee more character.

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