Is This Omega Seamaster the Best James Bond Watch Ever?

Nearly five years after its debut, the “No Time to Die” diver is a modern classic.

Published June 21, 2024

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Over the course of his 60 years (and counting) on the big screen, fictional superspy James Bond has worn many incredible watches.

From the Rolex Submariners donned by Sean Connery to the funky digital Seikos of Roger Moore to the blink-and-you’ll-miss-it TAG Heuer Night Diver cameo from Timothy Dalton, 007 has put together quite the collection of wrist candy.

Thanks to a licensing deal with Omega, James Bond has only worn Seamasters in every on-screen appearance since 1995. The character is most associated with the Seamaster Diver 300M — often referred to simply as “The Bond Watch” — thanks to its co-starring role in five consecutive movies between ’95’s Goldeneye and Casino Royale in 2006.

During Daniel Craig‘s tenure as the character, Bond also wore nearly every other Seamaster variation there is — an Aqua Terra, a Seamaster 300 and multiple Planet Oceans — and in the most recent film, 2021’s No Time to Die, the hero returned to the Seamaster Diver 300M for the first time in 15 years, but in a new version that looked like no other Seamaster that ever came before it.

Since then, the watch has not faded into obscurity. Quite the opposite, in fact, as the Seamaster “No Time to Die” now stands as one of Omega’s most recognizable models.

So how did a watch that could have been just another in a long line of Omega Bond watches become a modern classic?

omega watch on a mans wrist — The Omega Seamaster ‘No Time to Die’ is stunning and feels destined to be a classic.

From Movie Tie-In to Modern Icon

It’s rare for a movie watch to transcend its pop culture origins and take on a life of its own, even a Bond watch. Pierce Brosnan’s blue wave-dial Seamaster Diver 300M is an exception to the rule.

But Brosnan’s Seamaster became so popular partly because it was the only watch the actor wore in his four turns as 007; first the quartz-powered ref. 2541.80 and then thrice the automatic ref. 2531.80.

Craig, meanwhile, has worn different watches in every film. Most had little staying power and likely wouldn’t be remembered at all were it not for the (admittedly niche) Bond enthusiast community.

This brings me to the Seamaster “No Time to Die,” or as it’s been dubbed by the enthusiast community, the NTTD.

omega watch on a bottle of vodka next to a martini — Like any good Bond watch, the Seamaster NTTD pairs well with a vodka martini.

The watch’s release was far from ideal. It was first revealed by Omega in December 2019 and released in February 2020 as a movie tie-in watch ahead of No Time to Die‘s planned April 2020 release. You know what happened next, of course. A global pandemic took hold in March 2020, which resulted in several lengthy delays of the film’s release.

When No Time to Die finally bowed in theaters in the fall of 2021, the film’s custom Seamaster was already old news.

But then a funny thing happened. The watch took on a life of its own. It became a favorite of watch enthusiasts and watch media, receiving hype in countless forum posts and articles. It also began showing up on the wrists of a wide range of celebrities, from Conan O’Brien to Joe Rogan.

The fact that the watch not only remains in Omega’s catalog but seems to be thriving nearly five years after its debut signaled to me that it must possess some special x-factor. Eager to find out the roots of the watch’s je ne sais quoi, I spent a week with the NTTD on my wrist.

Hands-On with the NTTD

One glance at the NTTD, and it’s obvious you’re looking at a Seamaster Diver 300M. The same general design cues that have registered iconic for the last three decades are all there: The skeletonized sword hands, the twisted lugs, the scalloped bezel, the second crown at 10 o’clock for the helium escape valve, etc. It’s all there.

But somehow, simultaneously, the watch doesn’t look like the classic Seamaster. I own a Seamaster ref. 2551.80, the mid-size version of the original automatic blue wave dial, and at no point while wearing the NTTD did I ever think I was looking at my own watch on my wrist.

two omega seamaster dive watches next to each other — You can tell the classic wave-dial Bond Seamaster (seen here in the midsize version) and the NTTD are related, but each also clearly stand out as their own thing.

The NTTD’s use of titanium for its case and bracelet make it very lightweight, of course, but they also give the watch a duller sheen and, therefore, a stealthier appearance.

The use of tropical brown for the aluminum dial and bezel insert mixed with the fauxtina-colored lume gives the watch a worn appearance that somehow doesn’t feel contrived or forced. It manages to take the Seamaster’s very ’90s original design and transport it back in time to the early 1960s when Sean Connery’s James Bond was battling Dr. No in Jamaica.

The large domed sapphire crystal is something we’d never seen on a Seamaster Diver 300M before, and it works very well here, again giving the watch more of a mid-century feel and helping to change its overall vibe.

The watch manages to take the Seamaster’s very ’90s original design and transport it back in time.

Then there’s the bracelet. The classic Seamaster Diver 300M’s “tank tread” bracelet is considered an intrinsic part of its design, and also one of the most controversial. Some hate it, bemoaning its dated appearance and the fact that it doesn’t taper. Others adore it, considering the look iconic and praising it as one of the most comfortable bracelets out there.

Regardless of your thoughts on the tank tread, you won’t find the style on the NTTD. Instead, the watch uses a titanium mesh bracelet. It’s a unique choice that both sets the watch apart and makes it instantly identifiable. You can also get the NTTD on a NATO, but the mesh is such a key part of the overall look and feel of the watch that I consider it crucial to the design.

omega watch caseback — A solid caseback replaces the sapphire display back on the standard Seamaster Diver, reiterating the NTTD’s tool watch identity.

After spending time with the watch, I came away with the conclusion that this mesh bracelet will go down in Omega history as being at least as polarizing as the tank tread.

I love the way the mesh bracelet looks. It matches the uber-cool mid-century spy vibe of the watch perfectly, and it also feels extremely well-made and high-end. My issue was with the way it fit.

Unlike most mesh bracelets, the NTTD version uses a pin and buckle system that closes via a deployant clasp. It’s the type of deployant you’ll find on some rubber straps where the tail of the strap is stored against your skin under the rest of the strap. This eliminates the need for keepers and gives the watch a cleaner look.

I generally love this type of clasp, and it’s my preferred way to wear rubber. But on this particular Omega, I ran into an issue. Because metal mesh is not as flexible as rubber, the excess bracelet cannot hug the wrist in the same way.

The deployant clasp Omega uses is also quite long and bulky, so I was left with a large gap between the bracelet and the bottom of my wrist while wearing the watch. I think this is probably a non-issue if you have larger wrists, say 7 inches or above. But if you’re like me and come in below that, I’d try on a NTTD in person before purchasing one.

omega watch clasp on a wrist — The combination of a mesh bracelet with a large deployant clasp leads to some awkward fits.

Outside of the fit of the bracelet, I had very few issues with the NTTD (outside of it being a little too big at 42mm, but I have the same issue with every modern Seamaster Diver). It can be a little hard to read at times due to the reflectiveness of the domed crystal and the finishing on the hands that can cause them to disappear, but it’s easily fixed with a small twist of the wrist.

Reading the watch in the dark is not a problem, however. Just about everything is lumed on the watch, including the full bezel. It all glows very brightly, with everything glowing blue except for the bezel pip and minute hand, which appear green. Given that all of the lume looks the same orangey-yellow in the daytime, this is quite the feat.

When I did read the time, I was consistently impressed with the watch’s accuracy. I suppose we should all be used to Omega’s co-axial Master Chronometers by now, but man, this thing is impressive. While not the official rating, the watch kept time like a quartz watch while I had it — within a second per day — and winding the crown was like butter; a pure joy.

Even with the poor fit, the watch’s lightweight titanium construction makes it comfortable to wear, and the style is just killer. The warm colors appear simultaneously beautiful and rugged, and despite a lack of shiny surfaces, I found the watch to be quite visually compelling. The dial, while appearing sterile in pictures, is surprisingly lively in sunlight.

omega watch glowing in the dark held by a hand — The NTTD has lume everywhere, and it’s among the best I’ve seen.

This Seamaster also a cool factor that can’t be understated. It’s just a cool watch. The no-date layout, the subtle military references, the retro vibe … the pieces all fit together perfectly to create something that feels very special.

I’m sure the 007 connection doesn’t hurt on a subconscious level — Daniel Craig is even said to have had a role in the watch’s design — but I definitely felt a little more suave whenever I had the NTTD on my wrist.

Is the NTTD the best Bond watch ever?

Earning the title of the “best James Bond watch” is difficult, if not impossible. People have different tastes and preferences, and no one will ever agree.

The Rolex Submariner “Big Crown” ref. 6538 worn by Connery in Dr. No is pretty tough to top, as not only is it a Submariner — arguably the most iconic watch there is — but it’s one of the most collectible versions of the Sub.

james bond in goldfinger wearing rolex on a fabric strap — For many Bond fans, the Rolex Submariner “Dr. No” will never be topped.

Brosnan’s Seamaster ref. 2531.80 will also surely get some votes, as its multi-film run cemented its status as The Bond watch for an entire generation, myself included.

As for the NTTD, I could certainly see the argument, especially if we’re just rating its merits as a watch. It probably has the best movement of any Bond watch in the Omega Cal. 8806, it’s arguably the most well-built (and certainly the most expensive at retail, with an SRP of $10,000), and I can see an argument for saying it’s the best-looking (I expect Rolex fans to fight me on this).

Maybe in 50 years the NTTD will be seen as the consensus greatest James Bond watch of all time. But for now, I think the watch has transcended its blockbuster origins to become something else: a modern icon for Omega.