For most tool watches, the requirements are pretty clear-cut. A dive watch needs to withstand water pressure. A racer’s chronograph helps calculate speed. A pilot’s watch should serve the very specific needs of a pilot. But a field watch? There are no real clear-cut rules — many watches can handle an outdoor excursion, but fewer are made specifically for the job.
The ever-popular, bang-for-buck Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical is one of our favorites. Its affordable price and convincing vintage aesthetic harken back to the old Hamilton-made US military watches of the mid-20th century with an old-school-style, hand-cranked movement — but now featuring the latest Swatch Group tech with a healthy 80 hours of power reserve. What’s more, it comes in a range of options including different dial colors and even case finishes, any of which are winners in our book.
With an adventurous backstory, in-house automatic movement, Tudor’s excellent build quality and a field-watch-appropriate 39mm diameter, this is the one to get when you’ve decided you want a great field watch to wear every day. Some might argue that the Rolex Explorer is the ultimate upgrade field watch, but we chose the Tudor Ranger in part because its price and availability make it far more practical to purchase and wear in for the kind of occasion field watches are meant for. If it’s meant as an everyday or office watch, the steel bracelet is also a great choice.
Bertucci is a watch brand essentially dedicated to very affordable, very robust field watches. You can find different sizes, features (such as titanium cases and solar charging) as well as price points from the brand, but most are under $200. What they have in common is a hearty build that’ll hold up to just about anything. For a single Benjamin, you can a relatively basic model with a 36mm steel case — a sizing we find ideal for a field watch. As a first field watch it’s a solid choice.
Military-issued field watches aren’t really a thing anymore — most service people tend to prefer buying their own watches — but the tradition of mil-spec timepieces continues. Marathon’s General Purpose which is, thus, made to those specifications, and what you get is a stupidly simple watch with the classic military dial layout (though complete with tritium gas illumination!) and a quartz movement housed in a modest 34mm case.
As fans of the little old Seiko 5 SNK field watches, we were happy to see a similar style return to the modern Seiko 5 Sports collection. We reviewed the initial styles which measure 39.5mm, but the more recent Midfield models are even closer to perfect. Field watches should wear small and a diameter of 36.37mm is just delectable for this kind of watch.
Cabot Watch Company (CWC) is known in the watch world for making many of the British military’s watches in the latter part of the 20th century. The watch here is based on the W10 design issued in the 1970s before the introduction of the quartz G10. This version uses quartz in place of the original’s hand-winding movement, but it’s still close to the original (and the brand has also made mechancial versions).
Bulova‘s Hack watch recalls its history as one of the original makers of the watches (mentioned above) that offered soldiers the ability to stop the seconds hands when setting the time and thereby more precisely coordinate activities. A basic automatic movement and modern touches veer somewhat from the original military specifications — and its design is reminiscent of the MIL-W-3818A — but its smallish diameter of 38mm lends to its feeling of genuineness.
Vaer offers a generally minimalist look that takes otherwise often retro-feeling field watch designs into more contemporary territory. The brand makes different tool watch styles, with a range of field watches based on classic forms. Many are available in quartz and automatic versions, as well as options of Swiss movements or Japanese movements with American assembly.
The Vaer A5 Field offers similar features as the A3 above and “balances the ruggedness of a field watch with a refined design” according to our review.Chandler Bondurant
Originally designed for Japanese “mountain men,” the first Alpinist is often also considered Seiko’s first sport watch. It was long a sleeper in the brand’s collection, but the Alpinist returned in late 2019 with updates and refinements as part of the Prospex family. It’s got an upgraded 6R35 automatic movement with 70 hours of power reserve, sapphire crystal, a rotating inner bezel and restrained sizing of 39.5mm.
Young Italian brand Echo/Neutra’s debut product, the Averau has the overall feel of a field watch with some little differences that keep it interesting. Refined design details that show the passion of a small brand make it fun to wear and give it a shot of personality. At just the right size for a field watch or everyday wear at 39mm, solid specs like sapphire crystal and a Swiss automatic movement amount to some strong value.
The name Urban Field might suggest that this is a style-focused option merely offering a field watch design, but we trust that Yema is offering quality to match any field watch in its price range. The two available sizes both offer a relatively small diameter, as a field watch should, and thin wearing at 7.8mm thanks to a hand-wound Swiss movement. With multiple dial color options, it looks great on its throwback bonklip bracelet, but also comes on a dedicated bracelet with fitted endlinks — and either option includes a leather strap.
Among the famous 12 field watches made for the British military in 1945 and dubbed the “Dirty Dozen” are some well-known names as well as some obscure ones. Timor is one of the latter, and it’s been MIA until it reappeared on Kickstarter to resurrect the most notable watch in its history, now called the Heritage Field. It comes in an appropriately smallish case of 36mm with your choice of manual movement (like on the original) or automatic.
Sinn is known for making tough, over-engineered watches and the relatively basic 856 is no different. On the surface, it’s a legible time-and-date stainless steel watch, but note that said stainless steel has undergone a hardening process, leaving the case surface particularly scratch-resistant. What’s more, the brand uses a copper-sulfate capsule that absorbs and diffuses any internal moisture that enters the watch, preventing the crystal from fogging up and the degradation of the internal lubricants.
Bremont’s Broadsword is a contemporary take on the legendary British “Dirty Dozen” watches of the 1940s. Bremont’s take on it offers a modern luxury vibe and as well as sizing of 40mm making for a great everyday watch. It offers a nice balance between military utilitarianism and a more elevated feel than your pure, basic field watch. It’s also part of the brand’s collection which features insignia of the British armed forces which it’s officially licensed to use.
An oft-forgotten tool watch in the Omega lineup, the Railmaster’s legacy is over 60 years old. In its current guise, the watch features the brand’s Master Chronometer-certified, co-axial movement, meaning it has both chronometer-grade accuracy and resistance to magnetism. It’s the watch’s dial, however, that stands out most — thick plots of vintage-hued lume surround it, creating a legible but handsome time-teller.
The Rolex Explorer in 40mm. You can also get it in 36mm — and pair it with a suit, if you so desire.Photo by Zen Love for Gear Patrol
Watch nerds know the Explorer as the first watch up to the peak of Everest (though a Smiths came along for the ride as well) and this fact, to many, makes it infallible. (Being a Rolex probably helps, too.) This reference is the most recent and boasts an automatic movement with the brand’s superlative chronometer accuracy (as in it’s guaranteed more accurate than your standard COSC-approved watch), and features the brand’s proprietary Chromalight lume that glows a sharp blue in the darkness. Perhaps the ultimate field watch.
History of the Field Watch
Soldiers were some of the first men to strap watches to their wrists (women had done it first). But it was around WWII that the field watch as we know it today began to take shape with specifications stipulated by governments. One of the most notable features that distinguished such watches early on was the ability to stop the seconds hand when setting the time. Called “hacking,” this feature allowed soldiers to synch their watches more precisely, with obvious utility in coordinating battlefield operations.
Some of the most notable field watches were made by a range of companies for the US and British governments, but the design changed over time. One of the most classic traits is the standard 12-hour indices with 24-hour (military time) markings nearer to the center, á là the Hamilton Khaki Field. Gradually, the definition of field watches expanded to include (depending who you ask) watches for the likes of hunting and other outdoor activities, and eventually, it filtered into the mainstream.
The Seiko 5 Sports SRPG series is a modern take on popular old Seiko 5 watches like the SNK.Zen Love
To learn more about our testing methodology and how we evaluate products, head here.
What’s the Purpose of a Field Watch?
The field watch was originally intended for infantry in the 20th century. Unlike many watches made for specific purposes and professions, however, the field watch today doesn’t incorporate special functionality or features — aside from its design and general durability. That design, like other military equipment, is meant to be totally functional with little attention paid to aesthetics.
Also like other military gear, it turns out to be quite attractive to civilians. Simplicity and ruggedness also mean that the field watch isn’t just for the battlefield, but the likes of hiking, mountaineering and the outdoors in general. Although the field watch is stylistically versatile, and you might even be able to dress it up, most are basic in their finishing and fall short of what’s probably ideal for most formal occasions — you want a dress watch for those.
What to Look for in a Field Watch
So what should you look for in an ideal field watch? The same attributes the military found in classic general issue watches like the American A-11 or British W10 — that is, simplicity, durability and legibility. Dials should have big, contrasting markers and little else adorning them. Cases should protect movements from hard knocks. There should be lume aplenty.
The modern Seiko Alpinist SPB117.Zen LoveThe Seiko 5 Sports SRPG33.Zen Love
And that’s pretty much it. The good news is that because they’re less complex than other tool watches, even the best generally come pretty cheap (though there are some great vintage reissues, and you can treat yourself to a $6,450 Rolex Explorer, if you wish). This selection features some of our favorites — take them camping, hunting, overlanding or simply to your next happy hour, and know that they’re ready for whatever you have to throw at them.
How These Watches Wear
Field watches are traditionally small. That’s why modern examples in the sub-40mm range tend to feel the most authentic — but it’s worth noting that historically field watches were even smaller, probably too small for many modern tastes, even. If you want a bit more presence on the wrist, a NATO strap will add some bulk and look completely appropriate — pilot’s watches can also offer a similar focus on legibility with military looks but often larger diameters.
Being small and simple by nature, field watches tend to be stylistically very versatile. They’re not traditionally worn on metal bracelets, but they can be nowadays. You’ll find them most at home, however, on the likes of a NATO or rugged leather strap.
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